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	<title>Comments on: Switches</title>
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	<link>http://www.ishootshows.com/2009/01/25/switches/</link>
	<description>Music Photography, band portraits and promos from professional music photographer Todd Owyoung</description>
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		<title>By: Naoko Ohashi</title>
		<link>http://www.ishootshows.com/2009/01/25/switches/#comment-65606</link>
		<dc:creator>Naoko Ohashi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:19:51 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Hi Todd. These are so beautilful as always. I love all of your works.
ISO 12800....thats enough make me surprise again.
How many pictures do you take one concert?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Todd. These are so beautilful as always. I love all of your works.<br />
ISO 12800&#8230;.thats enough make me surprise again.<br />
How many pictures do you take one concert?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Todd</title>
		<link>http://www.ishootshows.com/2009/01/25/switches/#comment-62200</link>
		<dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jan 2009 04:39:27 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Anon, 

I would agree with you, except that you&#039;re assuming that the HI-1 extension on the D3 (ISO 12800) is achieved via analog gain in-camera.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Anon, </p>
<p>I would agree with you, except that you&#8217;re assuming that the HI-1 extension on the <a href="http://www.ishootshows.com/nikon-d3s" class="pretty-link-keyword">D3</a> (ISO 12800) is achieved via analog gain in-camera.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Anon</title>
		<link>http://www.ishootshows.com/2009/01/25/switches/#comment-62192</link>
		<dc:creator>Anon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jan 2009 03:40:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ishootshows.com/?p=1057#comment-62192</guid>
		<description>Effective ISO and real ISO are two completely different things. There is a lot more noise when actually setting the camera to 12800.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Effective ISO and real ISO are two completely different things. There is a lot more noise when actually setting the camera to 12800.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Todd</title>
		<link>http://www.ishootshows.com/2009/01/25/switches/#comment-61965</link>
		<dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Jan 2009 17:39:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ishootshows.com/?p=1057#comment-61965</guid>
		<description>Yeah, it&#039;s a beautiful thing. Color saturation and contrast do start to suffer after ISO 1600, but 3200 and 6400 are generally still pretty great as long as the images aren&#039;t tremendously underexposed.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yeah, it&#8217;s a beautiful thing. Color saturation and contrast do start to suffer after ISO 1600, but 3200 and 6400 are generally still pretty great as long as the images aren&#8217;t tremendously underexposed.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Chris Owyoung</title>
		<link>http://www.ishootshows.com/2009/01/25/switches/#comment-61934</link>
		<dc:creator>Chris Owyoung</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 26 Jan 2009 17:00:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ishootshows.com/?p=1057#comment-61934</guid>
		<description>&lt;cite&gt;The D3’s files start to lose a bit of saturation at ISO 12800 and above, just like the D2x’s files did above ISO 800, and especially at HI-1 (ISO 1600, where I so often shot).&lt;/cite&gt;

I love that the saturation only takes at hit at ISO 12,800. Ha.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><cite>The <a href="http://www.ishootshows.com/nikon-d3s" class="pretty-link-keyword">D3</a>’s files start to lose a bit of saturation at ISO 12800 and above, just like the D2x’s files did above ISO 800, and especially at HI-1 (ISO 1600, where I so often shot).</cite></p>
<p>I love that the saturation only takes at hit at ISO 12,800. Ha.</p>
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