No concert photographer is a stranger to the challenge of digital noise and challenges of balancing image quality against difficult shooting conditions. Even as digital sensors and image processing become more sophisticated, the issue of digital noise is a constant struggle in concert photography.
Live music photographers are constantly thrown into low and unpredictable lighting situations, and image quality can suffer as a result. However, with a little careful technique and other tricks, it’s possible to minimize hits to image quality, both in the pit and after the assignment.
Hi Todd,
I have a question about the quality of your images. The color gradations seem to be so smooth, as if you’re shooting at ISO 100. How do you do it?
I was wondering if you use any noise reduction software like Noise Ninja, or do you any other techniques to minimize that digital noise (grain).
Many thanks!
David
Thanks for your question, David. As any live music photog will lament, noise in digital images is a constant issue. Even as high ISO image quality gets cleaner, the demands of concert photography, “inventive” lighting designers, and photographers themselves will always push cameras – and their sensors – to their limits. Before we answer your question, let’s take a look at the nature of noise.
The Two Faces of Digital Noise
With digital images, noise has important two forms: luminance noise and chrominance noise. Luminance noise takes the form of a slight variation of values (lighter or darker than what they should be), while chroma noise introduces extraneous color information to the image.
Both these types of noise can occur both at the pixel level and also in larger clumps, depending on the sensor and image processing involved. These instances of noise also tend to be most prevalent in the lower end of the histogram as well.
Of these two types of artifacts, chroma noise is often regarded as being the more difficult to remove, but once filtered out, has little detriment to the final image.
Luminance noise, on the other hand, is somewhat more easily removed, but its reduction ultimately affects image detail as well as actual image detail starts to compete with artificial noise. Aggressive reduction to luminance noise can result in overly smoothed, plastic-looking images that lack fine details.
Understanding Noise
The best way to combat noise is to understand the factors that contribute to it.
Exposure
Correct exposure for one’s subject is critical in concert photography. Underexposure is particularly troublesome with low light photography, as increasing brightness quickly amplifies shadow noise. Achieving correct exposure at the time of capture is one of the best ways to ensure the highest image quality and minimal noise.
Tip: Get exposure right the first time. If shooting RAW, overexposing by 1/3-stop and bringing the image back in post can also help tame shadow noise.
White Balance
Accurate white balance at the time of shooting is closely tied to exposure, as WB itself can affect metering and the perceived exposure for the color channels in an image. In addition, large shifts in WB in post processing combined with positive exposure compensation will increase noise levels, particularly when multiplying deficient blue or red color channels.
Tip: Aim for consistent and accurate WB at the time of capture. Presetting WB can be a huge asset when shooting under lighting with a strong bias.
Sensor
While gear doesn’t make the photographer, having tools ideally suited to one’s pursuit certainly never hurts. One’s camera and its sensor will dictate signal-to-noise performance to some degree simply by virtue of efficiency and clever image processing. Sensor type, signal processing, and other specifications like pixel pitch all factor into how cameras will perform with regard to noise.
In addition, knowing the limits of your camera and how the sensor will perform at various ISO settings is key to producing the highest image quality. For concert photography, understanding the unity gain ISO of your camera’s sensors is one limit that can be especially helpful in squeezing out a cleaner file at high ISO.
Tip: Know your camera’s limits. Don’t be afraid to bump up the sensitivity to get the shot, but shoot at the lowest ISO necessary whenever possible.
RAW Converter
The RAW converter used can play a large role in the rendition of noise, depending on the file type and interpretation of that file. Just as color and camera curves may differ between images from one converter to the next, the size, contrast, and general prominence of noise may differ between conversion engines.
Finding an image processor that produces a pleasing treatment can be a huge part of final image quality in general, and noise at high ISO is no exception.
Tip: Evaluate different RAW converters and integrate into your workflow the one that delivers the best overall image quality. The OEM-packaged software might not be the best.
Settings
From the obvious to the more subtle, camera settings can have a dramatic impact on the perception of digital noise. Out of all the settings, in-camera noise reduction plays a huge role in how noise is treated, especially for relatively inflexible files like JPGs. In addition, settings for increased sharpening and contrast will also have an effect on perceived image noise.
For my D3 and D700, I have high ISO noise reduction disabled. The reason being is that the same mechanisms that reduce luminance and chrominance noise also degrade image detail. I prefer to start with as little noise reduction as possible and to tackle noise after RAW conversion in my post-processing workflow.
Tip: Avoid applying very high levels of contrast, sharpening, or noise reduction early on in the workflow; these variables can always be applied selectively in post-processing for the highest image quality.
To Ninja or Not to Ninja?
Popular noise reduction algorithms include Noise Ninja, Noise Ware, and Neat Image. These processes, available as Photoshop plug-ins and also as standalone applications, can be valuable solutions for dealing with excess digital noise.
In my current workflow with my Nikon D3 and Nikon D700, I use Noise Ninja to reduce chrominance noise only. For the majority of my images, I do not reduce luminance noise. The reason for this approach is that in most print applications, luminance noise is rarely objectionable unless the prints are very large, while chroma noise more unappealing to my tastes.
Make Some Noise, Concert Photographers
What’s your take on noise? Love it, hate it? Share your experience with dealing with noise images at high ISO!
This entry was posted on Monday, April 20th, 2009 at 4:43 pm and is filed under Letters, Photography Tutorials and tagged with advice, d3, high iso, music photography, noise, photography, reduction, tips. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.
Welcome to ishootshows.com, your source for music photography featuring daily concert coverage, portrait features, and photo advice from professional music photographer Todd Owyoung.
Support this site by purchasing your photo equipment through my affiliate links to B&H Photo Video or Amazon.com
Learn more about how you can support the features of ishootshows.com.
Shooting Caitlin Rose and band before the Old 97s was a fantastic warm up, and a nice way to dust of…
Here’s a little preview from a recent shoot with my friends Option Control toward the end of l…
Today Adobe has released the beta version of Lightroom4, the successor to their popular image manage…
You’ve seen it before – weird, colored blobs in your photographs radiating outward from some…
About that time when I said about the megapixel war being over with the release of the Nikon D4 and …
Interesting post Todd.
I usually leave the White Balance on Auto and fiddles with it if needed (rarely) during the editing since I shoot in RAW.
Also, if it’s so dark that I have to pump the ISOs to a dodgy level, I usually take the problem the other way around and go for a low-key image… (example http://www.flickr.com/photos/onedayforever/3105649826/in/set-72157611218649236/).
Todd – thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I use the Canon 5D and shoot with the 24-70mm f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8 and have found that at ISO 1600 is acceptable but ISO 3200 is too noisy, especially when the lights are red or yellow. I don’t typically have a problem with the noise as I think that it kind of goes along with the “atmosphere” of concert photography. 95% of the images I take go right up on the web, whether it’s for my radio station or for the artist’s web use, so noise isn’t really an issue when viewed at 600×400. However, it’s always my goal to take the best image possible…regardless of size :D
New to concert photography, these tips are VERY helpful. Thanks for posting this.
Nice work presenting this. I find I need to use Noiseware occasionally when shooting at ISO6400 on the Canon 5Dii, but if the lights are hitting the face at the correct angle, I can sometimes get away without it if I let the background fall to black. ISO 3200 and lower on the other hand have become essentially noise free. As Erin said in the first comment, most of my images also end up on the web or small flyers for upcoming gigs, so they’re displayed at 800×600 or lower, or printed at 6×4 or lower. It’s only occasionally that a big band will come through town and the images will be destined for magazines, but those type of bands generally have much better lighting setups so I can shoot at lower ISO.
Understanding digital noise and tips to optimize image quality at high ISO: http://is.gd/tymg
Understanding digital noise and tips to optimize image quality at high ISO: http://is.gd/tymg (via @toddowyoung)
RT @toddowyoung:Understanding digital noise and tips to optimize image quality at high ISO: http://is.gd/tymg
Understanding digital noise and tips to optimize image quality at high ISO: http://is.gd/tymg (Great information via @toddowyoung)
Thanks for your tips Todd. I use a Canon XTi and when I shoot concerts I use my 18-55mm (that’s the only one I have actually) and I have to use ISO 1600 most of the times. I agree with Erin when she says that the noise kind of goes along with the “atmosphere” of concert photography but when you have to print it it’s kind of upseting.
I use a program that’s called “Neat Image”.
I used on this photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/_mariel/2284768009/in/set-72157603968017993/ and all the photos on this set. I think it helped to look better but when removing the noise ‘Neat Image’ also removes all kinds of textures that the photo might have like the skin, hair, clothes and other textures.
Great article.
I’ve learned to accept the noise. I remove most of the chroma noise with one click in Lightroom. I always shoot RAW to avoid any White Balance issues (I shoot a smaller RAW in my 5dMkII).
Also, in the venues I shoot, ““inventive” lighting designers” are rarely an issue – usually it’s the opposite!
Sometimes I use a little surface blur to make the background lights look smooth
Great article Todd. You continue to be an inspiration. I shoot with a D3 and as you know the low noise/high ISO ratio is amazing; being able to shoot at 6400 has got me out of trouble many times. At times when I do get noise I do struggle to find a compromise with image quality. I use Adobe Lightroom 2 in my workflow and although it has a noise reduction feature it’s not nearly as good as I’d like.
On your recommendation I’ll have a look a noise ninja. I’ve looked into it in the past.
One final note, what do you think about the noise levels on your D700. Can it match the D3‘s?
for fellow photogs w/interest in superior-quality concert shooting – @toddowyoung is The Yoda. his post re: noise/ISO http://bit.ly/18Att8
for fellow photogs w/interest in superior-quality concert shooting – @toddowyoung is The Yoda. his post re: noise/ISO http://bit.ly/18Att8
I find pictures a bit ruined when i shoot from ISO 800 up (i use a 450D). So for me, the best bet is to still use fast lenses and keep my ISO at 400. Since i don’t have expensive lenses yet, my best lens is 50mm 1.8(i usually use 2.8), though i terribly sacrifice my zoom. I’m trying to save up for a 24-70 and 70-200 2.8 =D
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bamboo_live/3424311486/
I agree with Terry, Great article Todd! Can’t wait to put some of your recs to practice. I think I’ll dig up some old concert shots and re-apply noise ninja with the distinction of lumi/chromi noise in mind.
Hi Todd,
Thank you so much for answering my question in such detail! I had no idea there was 2 types of noise.
I have a D80, and a kit lens…gonna buy a new one soon. I think the sigma 70-200 2.8. I have a chance for a mediapass to CreatingFest 09,a 3-day music festival here in PA, I am just learning so much from you..I wish I could study under you!
If you check out my page you can see what I’ve shot so far, and it’s ok, but I have a ton to learn. I am using Photoshop CS4 as my Raw converter, and I have the noise ninja phop plugin. I do really like it, but as you said sometimes when I run it, the image gets cleaned up but seems to go soft. So I’ll have to relook at N.Ninja for the different noise types.
One final question…about WB, you said pre-WB is best, how do you do that? Do you have something like an expo disk and then just take various readings during the show? That seems like it would take too much time when you only have a limited amount of time to begin with.
sorry for being so long winded..Thanks for all you share!!!!!!
wish I could add more to the mix but I’m still a Noob at this.
david
Hi Todd, very nice article and discussion, very intersting to learn from a PRO like you!
I also got a D80 and usually at concert I shoot ISO 800-1600. I’m really interested in the WB topic: in the amatorials or not very-professional concerts where I shoot use always awful light, too yellow or so. What is your suggestion about?
Thanks in advance, I really admire your works and your divulgative and interesting site!
Paolo
Turin, Italy
Todd, great write up on this topic…
Honestly this has been a big issue for me recently as I have started shooting more regularly on assignment…not delivering high noise images. I had put off learning too much about post processing noise until now…
I fear I will be a little spoiled though after this week I will have shot with a rental 5d II at ISO 3200 for 2wks…great resolution and noise handling…the higher level bodies nikon/canon…you can just push further with less give on the exposure…
Hey all, thanks so much for participating in this topic. It’s great to hear what others are doing in regard to managing noise and the preferred ISOs you all are using.
quick question – is chroma noise really regarded as being the more difficult to remove? If you convert to lab you can simply blur (or better still median) both the colour channels to eliminate chrominance noise with little impact to the image. Plugins like noise ninja do an even better job of getting rid of colour noise.
Hey Matt,
Thanks for raising that point. I’ve found that channel blurring in LAB mode reduces color fidelity and more subtle tonal gradations in the image. For my workflow, using Noise Ninja to wipe chroma noise still produces the best results.
Hi Matt,
I’m still a NooB to all this, but I have noise ninja plugin for photoshop cs4, but when I run it it does a great job of minimizing color noise but it seem to soften up the overall image at the same time..It seems like a trade off between the 2.
I’d love to learn your technique of converting to LAB and bluring
i find myself adding noise to b/w photos…going for a vintage film look, w/ high contrast. i like it, but then again i’m not delivering images to a wire service, who would likely hate it.
Hi Todd,
I’ve been learning alot about this issue of high iso and push processing from you and I appreciate it soooo much!!
But I’m not sure how you actually set your camera up to do this …consider me a Noobie …
Is this right … I have a Nikon D80, and can’t findout what my unity gain iso is …clark doesn’t have a listing for it …but anyway ..lets say it’s ISO 1600 … Then I go to shoot a show and the light is worse and the camera wants me to increase to ISO 3200.
So do I set my ISO to 1600 and then set my EV to +1 and then just shoot and fix it later in NX or Photoshop? Or would it be EV -1? Sorry, but I just don’t understand how this works in a real life situation in regard to my actual camera settings.
Any help would be so greatly appreciated!!
[...] I personally will begin doing as well. He’s also got some great tutorials on “High ISO, Digital Noise & Noise Reduction“, “How to Request a Photo Pass“, DIY projects and more. Seriously… great [...]
Todd,
Thanks for the advice, I can’t wait to see the difference between some old photos I have in comparison to the ones I take after reading this.
Vanessa M.
Hey Todd, I was wondering what you set your sharpening at. I also use a d700, and shoot in standard with sharpening set to zero. Do you reccomend this?
Great article for #DSLR shooters on dealing with low light noise and ISOs.
http://t.co/HUpi265 @