fuji-x-pro1-8793

Shooting Tips, Camera Settings & Tricks For The Fuji X-Pro1

The Fuji X-Pro1 is an excellent camera that excels at image quality. However, out of the box, the camera isn’t quite setup for optimal shooting in terms of speed and ease of use.

After shooting with the Fuji X-Pro1 for the last 6 weeks with a full kit of the Fuji 18mm f/2, Fuji 35mm f/1.4 and Fuji 60mm f/2.4 macro lenses, I found a number of tweaks to the default settings that made the camera perform just a little better.

In this article, I’ve specified the camera settings that I personally found to make using the Fuji X-Pro1 faster and easier to use from the point of view of a DSLR photographer. In addition, there are a couple tricks to make AF a little easier and faster – something any photographer can use with the Fuji X-Pro1.

Read The Full Review

If you haven’t already, please read my full review of the Fuji X-Pro1. It is a comprehensive review of the Fuji X-Pro1 system and lens system, and addresses many issues with the camera that you may experience, particularly if you’re a DSLR shooter.

Recommended Menu Settings

These are the camera settings I changed to made the Fuji X-Pro1 most suitable for my shooting needs. Your mileage may vary, but I found these tweaks to make the camera all the more usable than the stock camera settings:

Shooting Menu 1: Image Quality (RAW+FINE) – Always shoot in RAW. With RAW + FINE, you get the flexibility of RAW with the instant use of the X-Pro1′s excellent JPGs. Also a smart move until Adobe fixes issues with their demosaicing algorithm for the X-Pro1.

Shooting Menu 3: Fn Button (ISO) – Quick access to change the ISO from the Fn button. With this access, which I find faster than the Q button for dedicated ISO adjustment, you have all exposure settings at your fingertips.

Shooting Menu 4: AE/AF-Lock Mode (Switch) – Ability to switch AE-AF-Lock on by pressing button once instead of having to press and hold – a useful tweak if you focus and recompose often instead of changing the AF point.

Shooting Menu 4: AE/AF-Lock Button (AE+AF) – Locks both AE and AF.

Setup 1: Silent Mode (ON) – No AF confirmation noise or beeps from menu selections for quieter operation.

Setup 2: Quick Start Mode (ON) – Doesn’t completely power off camera to increase responsiveness.

Setup 2: Image Display (OFF) – Turns off default 1.5 second image review in EVF for smoother shooting experience. 

Setup 3: Color Space (Adobe RGB) – My preferred color space.

“AF-ON” Button

With my DSLRs, I always have my cameras set up so that the shutter release only fires the shutter, while AF is controlled by the AF-ON button only. This way it’s so much faster shoot for my style of photography, and many other shooters prefer this set up as well.

While the Fuji X-Pro1 doesn’t really have a dedicated AF-ON button like most DSLRs, there is a work-around that you can use to achieve the exact same set up.

The small trick is to shoot in manual focus mode. The camera now defaults to allow the AE-L/AF-L button to activate focus as a kind of “AF override.” Now, the shutter release is entirely de-coupled from AF, but you can still activate AF through the AE-L/AF-L button, so in effect you’ve got your AF-ON button back.

Again, this is the way I have all my DSLRs setup (read about my technique and rationale for this set up), so it’s nice to be able to shoot this way with the Fuji X-Pro1 as well. The only downside is that since the AE-L/AF-L button is so far to the right on the back panel of the camera body, it’s not terribly ergonomic to use this setup the way it is with a DSLR.

AF Trick: Focus & Fire In One Action

One trick that many users seem to be finding out is to press the shutter release down fully to achieve focus and release the shutter in a single act. Most DSLR users are used to acquiring focus with a half-press and then firing the shutter after focus is locked. With the Fuji X-Pro1, the focusing lag experienced is partially due to the separation of these steps.

Many users are finding that by fully pressing the shutter release in one motion, the delay involving the contrast detection AF and shutter release seems to be lessened.

This trick is basically the opposite of the preceding trick to completely separate focus and shutter release, but if you’re a DSLR user who has been frustrated by the focus speed, it’s worth breaking your habits to see if this works for you. While this trick doesn’t work for all types of shooting, try it – you might just like it.

Never Shoot in 6FPS Bust Mode. Ever.

6FPS sounds great, until you realize that shooting in bursts will lock up your camera for what feels like 10x the time it took you to shoot your sequence. Just stick to single shot mode, your patience will thank you for it.

But you knew this last trick already, didn’t you?

Conclusion

There you go – a few settings and tricks that I found made the Fuji X-Pro1 handle just a little more responsively and elegantly.

Got some tricks or settings of your own that you’d like to share? Post them in the comments section!

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There are 10 comments

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  1. Mark

    The color space setting has no influence on RAW files which are generated sans-color-space. You assign a color space when you process the RAW file using an editor.

    It should only have an effect on the JPEG files generated by the camera.

    I don’t know if the setting has any purpose when used with the in-camera RAW processor.

  2. -S

    > The small trick is to shoot in manual focus mode. The camera now defaults to
    > allow the AE-L/AF-L button to activate focus as a kind of “AF override.”

    Hmm no, because the size of the AF zone is much much bigger than when using the camera in AF/S mode (and you can’t shrink it with the wheel). Also in my experience it’s definitely not the same “quality” of focus (just as AF/C is a bit more precise and can focus closer, as it was in the X100). My guess is that this button is enabled in manual mode to compensate for the very slow manual focus-by-wire (using the ring on the lens). The button takes you “close enough” to focus, then you micro-adjust it using the physical ring. That way you don’t have to rotate it on and on…

  3. Ed

    I agree with S. When shooting in manual mode, the AF zone is much bigger and thus, the focus is often not accurate. The camera will focus on a different object than we want in focus, and would get with a smaller focus zone, due to the focus zone size and what is focused having more contrast.

    S is also correct aout the AE-L AF-L button taking you ‘close enough’ to focus but given what I said above about the zone size focus, we need to micro-adjust so it focuses on what we want. All in all, I don’t think it’s worth it. Now, if Fuji allowed us to change the size of the AF zone in manual also, your suggestion might be right on target.

    Have you not noticed this anomaly? Am I missing something?

  4. Sergio

    My favorite review of the X-Pro, well done!

    However, I disagree with your ‘never use 6fps’ comment. I have used it with great success with the 60mm and 18mm to freeze a baseball pitch, skateboarder jump, and an acrobat.

    aF-C (which is the best mode for stills), and 6fps is great. To just point and mash the shutter all the way.

    Try it!

  5. John Smith

    Thanks for the tips.

    One problem…

    Now I am using the EF-X20 flash and when I select the SILENT MODE to ON, it disconnects the flash circuit. So I just turn down the OPERATIONAL VOL. to OFF.


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